If you’re like me there are not enough oyster opportunities to enjoy during the calendar year. Lily’s owner Emily Mendenhall agrees, but it wasn’t always that way.
“I had my first oyster ever when I worked at a Japanese fine-dining restaurant in Chicago starting in 2005. I have to admit, it was not love at first slurp. It took me until I moved to Louisiana where oysters are a way of life for me to become a convert and now I love them any and all ways, though the Oyster Shooters we do with choice of bloody mary mix and vodka or sake and ponzu sauce are a tribute to that first way I ever had an oyster are a favorite for sure,” said Mendenhall.
She sites the versatility of flavors and textures of the beloved bivalve as well as the myriad of ways they can be prepared as something worthy of celebrating. With 200-300 oysters consumed per night on average and 10 nights of Oyster Fest, Mendenhall says she estimates there will be between 2,500-3,000 oysters consumed and that doesn’t include the oysters in the chowder and oysters for frying. With those included it will be around 5,000 oysters the restaurant will prepare and serve.
Credit: Contributed
Credit: Contributed
“Our former Sous Chef James Burton, who now is a co-owner and operator of the wildly creative Pizza Bandit. conceived of Oyster Fest years ago as something to do in the winter when it can be cold and gray and monotonous. Something to bring folks out, but also treat them for coming out and to really celebrate oysters. When he brought up the idea I was immediately on board and we bonded over all the different preparation ideas. We had no idea what we were in for,” said Mendenhall.
“I remember that first Oyster Fest, running around all over because we had sold out of almost everything by 7 p.m. and we were trying to gather ingredients on the fly. We’ve sourced from Cincinnati and Columbus both in the past because our Oyster Fest patrons have eaten up all that was available in the Dayton market I think, and that’s even with us putting in orders well in advance so our suppliers can source more oysters and make sure we continuously have high quality, fresh oysters which is one of the key elements.”
Each year Mendenhall says the Lily’s kitchen team works to lock in what can be best executed, and with so many years under their belt she says they are ready for year eight.
“We’ve learned what our kitchen can successfully produce and also what guests are looking for. We have a range of dishes ranging from raw on the half shell, which is the most popular item of all, the oyster shooters, fried oysters ‘Oreganata’ which is a newer version of our fried oyster appetizer where the oysters are fried then tossed in lemon oregano butter and served with Lily’s spicy remoulade, an oyster chowder, a fried oyster po boy, and new this year, a large oyster gumbo entree,” said Mendenhall.
Credit: Contributed
Credit: Contributed
Pastry Chef Pat Dougherty will be making scratch made Cheddar Bay biscuits that will be a terrific accompaniment to the New England smoked oyster chowder ($12) garnished with seared bay scallop and crispy bacon crumbles as well as the oysters “Cochon-feller” — oysters baked on the halfshell with butter, garlic and sambal, inspired by Mendenhall’s favorite oyster preparation from her former employer, Cochon, in New Orleans ($12).
“People look forward to it every year and we have some regulars who come multiple times during oyster fest. If you come with a group of four to six people or so who are down to share, you can do a family style oyster extravaganza, but otherwise it would take a couple visits to taste through everything. Seeing people multiple times in a short period is really joyful and we leave every Oyster Fest with some new friends of Lily’s,” said Mendenhall calls it one of her restaurant’s signature events.
Here’s a look at the other preparations and dishes Lily’s will be serving up to honor this smooth, delicious briney mollusc.
• Oysters on the half shell: choose either assorted east coast (typically meatier) or West Coast (typically deep-cupped and more petite), $2.50 each with up to one horseradish, cocktail sauce, or mignonette sauce per two oysters. Saltines and hot sauce available at no cost upon request
• Oyster shooters: Bloody Mary oyster shooter with Belle of Dayton vodka, Lily’s signature bloody Mary mix, celery, and raw oyster, $7.50 or sake oyster shooter with chilled sake, ponzu citrus soy vinaigrette, toasted sesame seed, and raw oyster, $7.50
• Fried oyster oreganata ‘tossed in lemon oregano butter’ with Lily’s spicy remoulade, $11
• Shrimp and oyster gumbo with andouille served with a side of rice and potato salad, $22
Credit: Contributed
Credit: Contributed
• Fried oyster po-boy: Fried oysters served on French bread with lettuce, tomato and Lily’s remoulade, served with house garlic fries, $17
All items are available as supplies last. Lily’s will also be offering its regular dinner menu for those who don’t care how long supplies last because they are not interested in indulging.
The restaurant recently rolled out a dinner menu with several new dishes coinciding with Chef Don Warfe returning to lead Lily’s as Executive Chef late last year. Warfe was at Lily’s from 2020-2022 taking some time off due to COVID’s impact on the industry and his growing family.
Credit: Contributed
Credit: Contributed
As excited as he is for the changes, it will be all about oysters in just a few days and in Warfe we find another passionate fan.
“I love the simplicity of raw oysters. The complexity of some of the boutiques. Where they came from, how their history changes their flavor. Serving them on the half shell. Using delicate force to open them with respect because they are a living creature. It’s a whole experience and I’m here for it,” said Warfe.
Mendenhall hopes customers keep in mind that Oyster Fest is a night-time only event.
“It takes a lot of staffing to make sure we are treating everything with the care needed and deserved, so while we may do some specials in the daytime, Oyster Fest is a PM affair,” said Mendenhall.
In this case, night time is the right time, and I for one, can’t wait for it to get here.
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How to go
What: Lily’s 8th annual Oyster Fest
When: Jan. 24-Feb. 4 served in the evenings only with the restaurant closed on Mondays and Tuesdays
Where: 329 E. 5th St., Dayton
More info: exploretock.com/lilys or (937) 723-7637
Make a reservation: Last year they posted on social media, “It’s been busy busy busy, so while walk ins are always welcome, a reservation is also a good idea.” Do yourself a favor and make a reservation or risk disappointment.
Make it a pairing: Lily’s has put together two drink specials based on some classic oyster pairing cocktails. Sparkling wine and oysters are always a great choice, so in addition to sparkling wines by the glass including a sparkling N/A for Dry January or those steering clear of alcohol in general, there will be a sparkling wine punch. There will also be a gin and sake martini.
Recent changes: The restaurant recently reopened for lunch on Wednesdays and Thursdays after a several-year hiatus and there will be some menu updates coming to the restaurants popular brunch served on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
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